Augusta pattern

On the second day of Sewn Bristol being open, I picked up a copy of this Augusta hoodie pattern and a bit of jersey. I knew I wanted to make a wearable muslin first. The pattern is a perfect fit for me at size 44, no fitting adjustments needed, but I will definitely be making a couple of alterations to the pattern assembly.

Will I make it again? Definitely yes!

More details on Textillia: Black and Red Augusta Bomber.

Adjustments

  • None needed for fit.

Pattern Notes

  • Pockets: as written, the pocket is stitched to the inside front. I don't love the stitching line. I guess it's not TOO bad, but if you're making a welt pocket, it's not really THAT much more effort to make a bagged pocket. If you choose to follow the pattern as-written, make sure you turn your pocket edges to the RIGHT side of the fabric and trim at the top corner (nearest the pocket opening). This would have resulted in a much cleaner inside-of-jacket finish than what I ended up with.
  • Count your snaps! I did five instead of the pattern-mandated six. It's okay but would have been nicer if I'd done what the pattern said (instructions don't have a count, and I hadn't marked the spots because I'm lazy). ;)
  • Sometimes the instructions say "using a stretch stitch" and sometimes they don't. I used a zig-zag for everything. Probably I didn't need to, but it seemed safer. As a result, the hood isn't nestled as tightly to the facing as I would have liked and there's a bit of a step instead of a smooth line.
  • Because I was zig-zagging everything, where it said "understitch", I "top stitched". Black fabric with black thread meant I could get away with this.
  • The bottom band instructions did not make a lick of sense to me. I searched high and low for alternate instructions, but all of the bomber jacket instructions I found had a square connection for the ribbing to front facing, and on the Augusta, it's a curved connection. I like the look of the curved band attachment, so I stuck with it. But I had to abandon trying to understand the instructions after the second night of failing. This is how I did it in the end (replaces step 17 of the pattern): -- Right sides together, sew the band to the jacket bottom along the straight bit (not the curved edge). -- For each of the ends of the bottom band, and with right sides together, sew the curve of the band to the inside of the front. Your band will now be completely attached along the right side of the jacket. The facing on the inside of the jacket is not yet attached. -- Turn the inside edge of the facing in to match the curve of the band. Stitch by hand to hold it in place, or simple stitch in the ditch of the curve from the outside whilst catching the back of the facing to hold it in place.

Prep

I'm testing to see if I care. For science.

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Sewing Details

Poor life choices alert! Glue stick was a great idea, masking tape was not! If you are going to fold your edges over to finish them, fold them to the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric, so that they're INSIDE the pocket once it's sewn to the garment.

In Progress Fit Checks

Progress on my Augusta hoodie after some cheerleading (and snaps) from @sewnbristol today.

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PS those top seams not matching on the sleeves? Does not bother me one little bit.

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Band Details

Stumped on the band instructions. Looked for an online tutorial but came up empty. Will try again tomorrow.

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Finished

That top seam I didn't pattern match? Barely even visible for all the noise in this fabric. I love science.

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