On the second day of Sewn Bristol being open, I picked up a copy of this Augusta hoodie pattern and a bit of jersey. I knew I wanted to make a wearable muslin first. The pattern is a perfect fit for me at size 44, no fitting adjustments needed, but I will definitely be making a couple of alterations to the pattern assembly.
Will I make it again? Definitely yes!
More details on Textillia: Black and Red Augusta Bomber.
- None needed for fit.
- Pockets: as written, the pocket is stitched to the inside front. I don't love the stitching line. I guess it's not TOO bad, but if you're making a welt pocket, it's not really THAT much more effort to make a bagged pocket. If you choose to follow the pattern as-written, make sure you turn your pocket edges to the RIGHT side of the fabric and trim at the top corner (nearest the pocket opening). This would have resulted in a much cleaner inside-of-jacket finish than what I ended up with.
- Count your snaps! I did five instead of the pattern-mandated six. It's okay but would have been nicer if I'd done what the pattern said (instructions don't have a count, and I hadn't marked the spots because I'm lazy). ;)
- Sometimes the instructions say "using a stretch stitch" and sometimes they don't. I used a zig-zag for everything. Probably I didn't need to, but it seemed safer. As a result, the hood isn't nestled as tightly to the facing as I would have liked and there's a bit of a step instead of a smooth line.
- Because I was zig-zagging everything, where it said "understitch", I "top stitched". Black fabric with black thread meant I could get away with this.
- The bottom band instructions did not make a lick of sense to me. I searched high and low for alternate instructions, but all of the bomber jacket instructions I found had a square connection for the ribbing to front facing, and on the Augusta, it's a curved connection. I like the look of the curved band attachment, so I stuck with it. But I had to abandon trying to understand the instructions after the second night of failing. This is how I did it in the end (replaces step 17 of the pattern): -- Right sides together, sew the band to the jacket bottom along the straight bit (not the curved edge). -- For each of the ends of the bottom band, and with right sides together, sew the curve of the band to the inside of the front. Your band will now be completely attached along the right side of the jacket. The facing on the inside of the jacket is not yet attached. -- Turn the inside edge of the facing in to match the curve of the band. Stitch by hand to hold it in place, or simple stitch in the ditch of the curve from the outside whilst catching the back of the facing to hold it in place.
Working on a wearable muslin for an Augusta hoodie. I haven't got ribbing, but I'm not sure if I care. I don't particularly want the bomber jacket effect. I'm in it for the raglan sleeves and hood. I did look online for ribbing and was pretty unclear on whether I should buy online without being able to do a stretch test. Thinking I might just use the black jersey for the cuffs. Opinions on this dilemma?
Poor life choices alert! Glue stick was a great idea, masking tape was not! If you are going to fold your edges over to finish them, fold them to the RIGHT SIDE of the fabric, so that they're INSIDE the pocket once it's sewn to the garment.
Seeing as we're playing this game "for science" I have made some "non-standard" life choices. Masking tape was pretty good but impossible to pull off from under stitches (I had this dream it would be like tear-away stripper pants...not so much with the chip'n'dale...maybe because I'm using a zigzag?). Glue stick was awesome to turn over the seam allowance. I'll use that again on slinky fabrics.
In Progress Fit Checks
I pulled a Joyce, ignored the instructions, and just got the darn thing done. For science. Overall: good sew. I don't love the inside (too messy), and the band instructions made zero sense to me. Apart from the band, I'm not convinced this is as hard as a 4/5 difficult rating implies. Will sew again with a few modifications. #augustahoodie #sewbrizzle band is a bit tight but I'll just leave the bottom snap undone. Solved.